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70cm
/ 432 MHz Transverter Project
January
2010
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After the
2009 Spring VHF/UHF Field Day, I decided
that I had to improve the performance of the 70cm / 432 MHz equipment.
I needed a lower noise figure on receive and more transmit power
than was being achieved with an old Microwave Modules MMT432-28
transverter. More importantly, I wanted something small and almost
self-contained - much like my 23cm
transverter. I had bought 2 diecast boxes and 2 heatsinks at
that time so that pre-decided the overall "package size"
for me.
The 23cm
transverter project had also exposed me to the use of surface mount
components more than previously so I thought that it was time to
update the technology used in this project to catch up with the
times ( it is 2010 after all ! ). I searched around and found sources
of 0603, 0805 and 1206 resistor and capacitor 'packs' plus bought
in some MMICs, SMT diodes & transistors and some RF chokes etc..
In effect I topped up the 'parts box' with this style of part.
The next
step was to confirm a circuit design. I downloaded the DEM 432/28
transverter manual and I ended up merging parts of it's concept
with an extract of the Minikits 23cm transverter concept. Ok, after
a lot of deliberation I effectively had a basic schematic to build
to. The DEM transverter used either the 30 watt or 60 watt Mitsubishi
RAxxH4047M RF power block without any other circuit changes and
since both were available from Minikits in South Australia, I had
to decide which PA I would use. The difference in cost was 30 watt
RA30H4047M @ about $65 or the 60 watt RA60H4047M1 @ about $95. Since
I wanted the greatest transmit power that I could achieve in a small
package with field days in mind, I bought the 60 watt version. The
front end was going to be a MGF1302 because I had some on hand plus
I knew of many others who used these in their masthead amplifiers
at 70cm & 23cm - and if it was a low enough noise figure for
them, why not for me too. Fortunately I had pre-bought 4 of the
TOKO 430-450MHz helical filters last year because they were destined
for this project & Minikits no longer has any stock !
I now had
all of the bits I needed to make it up, SMD-style-mounted antenna
changeover relay included. Now for a PCB... I have previously used
the ExpressPCB
software for creating PCB layouts for my PICAXE projects so
it was the natural choice for me to use that, particularly as it
had SMD components in the supplied library. I had to create new
components too but that was ok. It was going to be a bit simpler
than doing a 23cm version because there weren't going to be any
PCB-style tuned lines, and with the lower operating frequency, track
lengths could be longer. Even so, I knew I still had to make sure
of effective earthing so that the MMICs & PA remained stable.
The outcome
was to be a PCB using surface mount techniques, single sided on
a double sided PCB material so that I could use wire-through grounding
'vias' to improve the 'grounding' and thus the stability of the
MMICs on the PCB. The technique I aimed for was that all components
would be mounted exposed side up and that the back-plane would actually
be screwed down to the diecast box so that the RF power module on
one end could just be attached through a cutout directly onto the
heatsink (in a similar manner to the 23cm transverter).
I am not
planning to actually supply the schematic on this web page but below
is the configuration in block and layout form. It may not look complex
until you start to do a maximum-copper PCB layout with minimal actual
jumpers. I have lost count of the number of changes that I made
in positioning parts, then re-positioning other parts to make everything
fit. The aren't any actual jumpers required on the board & all
of the wires to/from the PCB are actual input, output or power connections.
One thing
that is not on the PCB is the actual local oscillator (L.O.) - only
the multiplier / amplifier chain. The L.O. will be one of two styles
- either a standard Butler-style crystal oscillator - or - a PLL
synthesiser locked to my GPSDO 10MHz frequency source. The other
factor involved in the LO design is that I wanted a lot of flexibility
as to whether I used the I.F. set to either 14 MHz, 28 MHz or 145
MHz. To achieve this, the actual LO injection into the mixer will
be at 418.000 MHz, 404.000 MHz or 287.000 MHz respectively for a
432.000 operating frequency. I chose to use wire hairpin loops (
L2 & L3 ) above the PCB rather than on-PCB tracks so that I
could easily adjust the inductances and thus the resonance range
with the on-board trimmer capacitors. Before anyone argues that
you shouldn't use 145MHz as the 3rd harmonic will be generated at
the mixer output and remains within the bandpass of the transmit
output filtering, my research indicates that the 435.300 ( eg 3
x 145.100) level will be at least 35 (and more likely 45 - 50 )
dB below the on-frequency product ( at 432.100 ) when using the
ADE11X mixer. Given that the driver mode is primarily USB, anything
radiated at around 435.3 will be low level and very spasmodic in
nature.
At this stage,
I am leaving my options open as to whether I will use a 14, 28 MHz
or 145 MHz I.F. in the finished unit - in other words the design
has to flexible enough to allow any I.F I want.
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Mouse-over
the graphics for larger detail.
The
research, planning & creating the PCB layout of the transverter
occupied varying amounts of time during Dec 2009...
enough that the XYL commented "haven't you finished that YET
?" when she kept on seeing the PCB layout being worked on on
screen...
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1st
January 2010 : Making the PCB....
The
positive artwork from ExpressPCB was generated by printing
on Celcast Inkjet-style transparencies ( IJ21-50) on my Canon
R210 inkjet printer. The printer was pre-set to default to
photo mode and for inkjet transparency media before attempting
to print because there are no printer setup options within
ExpressPCB !
I had
previously tried printing on my Kyocera laser using laser
copier/printer transparency media ( Celcast 600-100 ) as well
but it did not seem to be 'black enough' and there were obvious
'fault and shading lines'. By using the inkjet on photo mode,
the resulting print was completely black - without lines or
visual blemishes. Just a suggestion, leave the inkjet transparency
overnight so that the ink is properly dry before trying to
contact print with it.
I used
some old Kinsten positive resist double-sided PCB ( date coded
back in 1999 ! ) that I used in my old contact print frame
and took it outside for exposure to the sun, but initially
with a cover over it . I removed the cover for a timed 20
secs for direct sunlight then quickly re-covered it to stop
further exposure.
The
PCB was then developed in weak caustic soda solution (NaOH)
- about 2-3 minutes until the green wisps disappeared indicating
that all of the light-exposed area had been processed.
The board was then rinsed thoroughly under cold running water.
The
board was then etched in fresh Ferric Chloride (FeCl) solution
at room temp (28 degrees C today), taking about 6-7 minutes
before being washed off properly, again with running water
under the tap.
Just
a note for those who noted that it was a double-sided piece
of PCB material : the protective adhesive plastic layer was
left on the second side during exposure, developing &
also during etching.
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This is the untrimmed etched PCB still covered with the green
positive resist.
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After
etching, the PCB was cleaned off with steel wool, again under
running water. The other side (plain copper) then had the
protective plastic layer removed and then the positive resist
removed - again with the steel wool.
After
drying, both sides were sprayed with a clear protective PCB
lacquer. The board was then left overnight for the lacquer
to dry properly.
Note
: some PCB positive resists can be left on the board and used
as masks to prevent future corrosion of the copper tracks
- and can be soldered through. I had not tried that particular
characteristic of the Kinsten board so elected to remove the
resist coating and use the clear lacquer as I have done many
times previously - very successfully.
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This photo
was taken a few minutes later after the resist was removed
with steel wool.
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| See
also my making PCBs page for other details
about this process. |
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It became
pretty obvious at this stage that I wasn't going to get the PLL
synthesiser project ready in time for the field day so it was
"full steam ahead" to build a 'work/look-similar' to the
Minikits-EME65 L.O. ( see my 23cm
transverter page for more details ) up as an interim 400 MHz
local oscillator. The schematic was changed a little to suit my
approach and the parts list was a little different too. As with
the other projects, this was as close to SMD-style as I could make
it. That meant that the transistors were SMD's and primarily the
big items : trimmers, crystal, 3-terminal regulator and coils weren't,
and it all was to take place on just one side of a double-sided
piece of printed circuit board. It took less than a day to create
the PCB layout from the altered schematic, produce an actual PCB,
mount the components on it and power it up.

Actual PCB
size 65mm x 38mm
The photos
below show the 69.666 MHz crystal shrouded in a sleeve of black
heatshrink, over a previously shrouded sleeve (so double thickness
heatshrink), and that enclosed a PTC resistor heater element too.
My initial consideration on the lengths of the tuned lines was somewhat
in error (or I didn't use the trimmers that I should have) in that
the trimmers were initially in full mesh coming up to the peak in
output at 418 MHz. That was solved simply by adding a 4p7 SMD NPO
capacitor across each trimmer and, from the top photo below, you
can see the trimmers came back to mid-mesh. Of course if I had been
using it up around 500MHz (or so), it would have been fine. The
pair of enamelled wire coils plus associated trimmers resonate at
209MHz while the coil on the Neosid former to the left of the 3-terminal
regulator was tuned to 69 MHz. Not visible in the top photo is the
frequency adjustment trimmer (behind the crystal/shroud), but shown
in the bottom photo.

Pink/green wires
were +12V supply & ground, orange was heater power.

Rotated view
showing the frequency adjustment trimmer at RHS
The
RF output level at 418.000 MHz was around +10dBm.
Tests for actual frequency drift showed that it was marginally better
with the crystal heater powered on (& after stabilising for
a period) - as against with it unpowered - but of course the frequency
was different for each 'mode' (hot/cold) so required re-trimming
to frequency for each evaluation..
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The components
were mounted on the transverter PCB as per the above board layout
and finally powered up one section at a time, starting with the
local oscillator (LO) segment. The photo below shows the PCB at
a stage a little before completion - there are still components
like the MGF1302 RF amp, the voltage regulator and the 7660 negative
supply device still missing. If nothing else, it gives you an idea
of how the main transverter PCB was put together.

Needless
to say, the project was not without it's issues. The LO output from
the separate PCB output was over-driving the transverter-LO multiplier
simply because it no longer needed to frequency multiply (as was
planned, with those inherent losses). It was now just a buffer amplifier
and after a good deal of testing, just one MMIC stage was left in
place between the external LO and the ADE11X mixer, thus dropping
out the 2 x ERA3 stages plus the L/C filtering between them. Exit
two trimmers, coils & some SMD parts.
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I decided
that it was going to be easier to get the receive side working first
so put +12V onto the couple of RX supply pins, connected a receiver
to the IF output and a signal generator to the receive input and
proceeded. I could hear the generator at 432 MHz with a fairly low
input level and as I tuned the common 430 MHz helical filter and
then the receive-only 430 MHz helical filter, the sensitivity improved
more. The final tuning point was at the input of the MGF1302 receiver
RF preamp and that was a matter of adjusting a series trimmer and
a parallel resonating trimmer for best performance consistent with
what could/should be the best noise figure. Final results will be
tabulated later. In real terms, the receive side was pretty straightforward
- it tuned easily, was stable, and was quite sensitive.
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The transmitter
side was a completely different story. I put RF from the sig gen
at 0dBm into the transmit IF port, +12V onto the TX supply pins,
used the R7100 receiver at 432 as well as my spectrum analyser,
both connected via a T-piece with the sample point being the output
of the second transmit 430MHz helical filters. Both transmit helical
filters peaked ok, the spectrum looked pretty clean, output level
was about +6dBm, things were looking good. I then connected the
ATF-50189 driver stage in line and adjusted the bias for the 280mA
of supply current and the stage was unstable - with spurious signals
all over the place. Even though it produced around +20dBm output
(100mW), it was unusable. I tried different bias adjustment points
and eventually found one where it 'seemed' stable. At one stage
I even saw about 250mW (+26dBm) out of the thing. I have to explain
at this point that the receiver testing and the transmit side (so
far) were done with the PCB just on the workbench, but to progress
further, I now had to start mounting things into the destination
diecast box so that I could connect the RA60H4047M1 60 watt power
amplifier block.
Holes were
drilled in the diecast box, the PA area slotted to accept the PA
block directly onto the heatsink assembly, the heatsink mounted
on the top, coax connector holes made. ... etc.. etc.. The physical
assembly went well, the transverter PCB positioned properly so that
it matched up with the PA leads, heavy duty power leads brought
into the box - all of the things you would expect....
Finally it
was time to put power on to the transmit side again, this time with
the 60 watt PA block in line, and with the transmitter output terminated
in the power meter/dummy load and with a sample to the spectrum
analyser. Power on - no sparks, fires etc.. Adjust the variable
bias voltage on the PA block - it is now drawing about 7 amps at
13.2V - still no fires or sparks. Apply drive at the IF gradually
increasing the input level, the RF power meter shows more than 40
watts for a while then drops. Sure the heatsink was warm/hot but
then again, that is expected when dissipating the 80-100 watts quiescent
power under transmit conditions. Nope, the PA wasn't too hot and
is still drawing about 7 amps, down from the 15-odd amps with drive
and the RF output. Nothing I do gets me much RF output.
Let's go
back to the RA60H4047M1 data sheet - maximum drive 100mW (+20dBm),
that SHOULD have been ok - BUT IT WASN'T. It turned out that the
input MOSFET stage of the 4047M1 had been overdriven because it
really only wants about +6 to +10 dBm drive to achieve maximum output.
My ATF50189 was outputting too high a level - a level that the PA
block could not accept. Add the possibility that the ATF50189 became
unstable / spurious again and created yet a higher power - in excess
of the +20dBm rating - even for a short time. Exit one RA60H4047M1
- value just under $100.
I contacted
Mark at Minikits and he urgently shipped me a RA30H4047M PA block
- the 30 watt version - priced a bit lower at around the $65 mark.
I installed that device in place, skipped the ATF50189 stage completely,
set IF drive at around -30dBm and powered it up again. By the time
I was at -20dBm IF drive, there was about 1/4 watt of RF output
and as I increased the IF level, up came the RF output power. I
saw about 40 watts output at around 0dBm drive, power level was
stable, spectrum analyser looked good. This time around, the transmit
side was working properly.
Unfortunately
I didn't take any photos through these stages so can't show you
the progress... I was more interested in the technicalities !
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I still had
lots of other things to do : like wire the antenna changeover relay
in line, install a presettable attenuator into the TX IF input line,
set up the transmit/receiver supply voltage switching, add indicator
LEDs to the frort of the box.... but they got done and the transverter
reached the stage where it actually looked like a finished unit
- and best of all - it looked like it was going to be ready for
the VHF/UHF field day. I then set up the I.F. transceiver - my Icom
IC-718 - at 1 watt of transmit output power at 14 MHz & the
IF input attenuator at 30dB so that the actual transmit IF drive
was close to 0dBm.
It was time
to do some on-air testing because the 'in-shack' results seemed
good. John VK4TJ in Toowoomba, at around 100KM away, came to the
rescue with a successful QSO on 432.100 SSB, sounded good each way.
I could hear another fellow in Toowoomba and he couldn't hear me
so that confirmed the receiver sensitivity was very good - as I
had measured. In point of fact, a test with the antenna on and off
- a good test of noise figure - was such that upon connecting the
antenna (a 24 element yagi), there was an appreciable rise in noise
apparent in the receiver. This test was repeated with my Icom AH-7000
discone fed via heliax - same result.
And, yes,
it was ready in time for the field day as the photo below shows.
The transverter above the IC-718 at the RHS is this 70cm unit, the
one on the LHS is the 23cm transverter atop the Kenwood TR751A transceiver.

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| One thing
that did become obvious during the 2010 Summer
Field Day was the LO drift issue. Even with the crystal heater
powered up, the heating effect of the whole diecast box must have
been sufficient to make it move around in frequency. The subsequent
periods while I operated on other bands - and thus allowed it to cool
- made the frequency unpredictable to a degree. This effect made me
divert my attention afterward entirely to the PLL
synthesiser project simply because I had the same problem now
with both my 23cm and 70cm transverters - frequency drift with time/temperature
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Any
feedback would be appreciated :
Feedback Form
Last
edit
:
25-Mar-2010
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