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Every so
often I find that I need to make up "yet another" HF helical
whip antenna - for mobile or portable operation. There aren't too
many on-line calculators that will allow you to readily design your
own whip to your parameters : frequency, length and effective diameter
of the former. I should point out that the calculator software gives
you the starting point for creating one - it is not an exact science
as all sorts of factors influence the final frequency - how well
you have wound it, turns spacing as you get further down the winding.....
One very
important thing about helical whips : they are narrow bandwidth
devices. A whip for 40 metres (eg 7070) is likely to be only about
20 to 25 KHz wide at the 2:1 SWR points so it is imperative to accurately
tune them to the segment of the band you plan to operate - and -
do it on the mounting and with the ground plane that you will continue
to use it with. On 80 metres, expect around 10 to 15 KHz for 2:1
SWR. In essence they are a physically-shortened quarter wave radiator
and the bandwidth is determined by the physical parameters (eg length)
as well as the wire diameter and losses (i.e. Q of the wound inductance).
Way back
(1970's or 80s) I bought a multi-page computer printout (about 50-60
pages of number tables) that was used to provide a design for the
same parameters used in this application - however it was a reasonably
complex process - as against the ease of doing the same today. I
guess I was lucky because the front page of that printout contained
the formula that was used to generate the many pages of printing
- so I eventually used that to create a worksheet in MS Excel. I
had been using that worksheet for some years but time marched on
so it was time to update and re-do it into a stand-alone Windows
application. Accordingly, recently the same formula was implemented
in a (pascal-based) Delphi program for Windows 2000, XP & later.
This calculator
does not take account of all of the extra effects at RF : it is
a simple get-the-project-started device and should be accepted as
that.
While the
basic software could be used to provide the dimensions for helical
whips at VHF and maybe even UHF, that is not its primary purpose.
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The program
is pretty easy to use : enter the frequency (in KHz) in the top
box, the winding length on the former (in Metres) in the next one
down and finally the mean (or average) diameter of the former in
the 3rd box down (in Metres also). It calculates the number of turns
required and then adds some extra helpful info : the absolute maximum
wire diameter (in mm) and the theoretical wire length required (in
metres). provided there is data in these 3 boxes, you can change
the data in any one and it will recalculate automatically. Changing
the frequency in the top box from 7070 to 14180 without changing
the length or mean diameter will reduce the number of turns, increase
the wire gauge and reduce the actual length of wire required.
Example results
: 7100 KHz, 1.8 metre long winding section of former, 0.025m (25mm)
mean diameter requires 398 turns of a maximum gauge of 0.45mm enamelled
wire, a theoretical wire length of 31.22 metres. In practice I would
make sure that I have at least 33 to 34 metres of wire available,
something around 0.3mm to 0.4mm diameter PEI wire and count the
turns as they are wound on. Allow an extra 5% to 10% on the turns
count to make up for your close versus spaced winding (eg around
440 versus calculated 400 { and thus needing extra wire } ). Terminate
the lower end of the wire and start measuring but PLEASE
NOTE : Helical whips require a good ground plane - effective
at the operating frequency - so must be fed against that "ground"
even when testing.
Shifting
the frequency from 7100 to 7060 in the calculator (all other parameters
remaining the same) changes the calculated turns count from 398
to 400. As you can tell from that, physical construction accuracy
is imperative if you have any hope of getting it to resonate at
the desired frequency !!!!! ( just 2 turns = 40 KHz shift !! )
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To
download, right click on helicalwhips.zip
and select 'Save File As.." from the drop-down menu.
File size is about 200KB and contains one file : helicalwhips.exe,
suitable for Windows 2000, XP or later.
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Please don't make this calculator software
available for download from other web sites as it may be updated
from time to time. Simply link back to this page please.
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A few
things to note :
- When you
are winding a helical on a tapered former, (or even a parallel
sided one like electrical conduit), you still need to mount it
at the bottom somehow. If your piece of "former/pipe"
is 2.4 metres long, you might need 300mm for mounting and the
bottom terminating point so the actual winding length to put into
the calculator is 2.1 Metres. Sometimes it is better to allow
for even a shorter percentage of the former as the wound length
(e.g. use a dimension of 1.8 to 2.0 metres in the calculator)
as this really allows the bottom turns to be spaced out.
- A parallel
sided former / blank has a mean diameter the same as its actual
diameter. A piece of true 25mm diameter conduit has a "mean
diameter of 25mm" so 0.025 is used in the calculator since
Metres is the defined measurement base. By the way, for permanent
installations, no one says that the former can't be another type
of weather-stabilised material - like a varnished/painted
wooden broom handle ! In some ways, the larger the diameter of
the former, the better - less turns but often harder to handle
when winding. The software requires the "mean diameter"
so if the tube/former you plan to use does NOT have a linear taper
on it, you will have to work a little harder to calculate the
mean value.
- Always
allow extra wire and turns when you wind the whip (I suggest up
to 25% more wire). It is easy to remove turns to raise the frequency
but adding more is always an issue : dry joints, weak points that
break with flexing in the wind....
- Use good
quality enamelled copper wire, preferably with PEI insulation.
PEI has a higher temperature and voltage rating than PUR even
though it has to be scraped to remove the enamel for soldering.
PUR insulation is the one that will melt with a soldering iron
- easy to tin with a hot soldering iron but lower temperature
and voltage rating.
- When I
made mine, I used a short length of copper braid slipped over
the top end of the whip former, tinned and glued in place, with
the top end of the enamelled wire cleaned off and soldered to
this tinned sleeve. It helps keep the top in place as you start
your winding process and also gives you a simple "snip-able"
extra tuning method.
- When you
wind a helical whip, the turns at the top of the antenna are close-wound
- i.e. the turns are touching each other and pulled tight on the
former. Occasionally put a temporary piece of tape around the
winding to make sure it doesn't "spring" loose when
you release the tension on the winding wire. As you progress down
with the winding, the last 1/4 to 1/5 of the antenna are spread
out such that the last turn or two might take up even 5 - 10%
of the total length. The tuning process is to use an RF impedance
analyser ( or calibrated GDO ) to measure the actual resonant
frequency of the antenna and remove turns from the bottom slowly
until the resonance has risen to the bottom of the band eg 7000
for the 40 metre band. The final fine tuning is done by spreading
or compressing the turns at the bottom to achieve resonance (or
a VSWR close to 1:1) at the desired frequency e.g. 7070 KHz. Don't
forget to remove the temporary bindings before you heatshrink
it.
- Once you
have the antenna tuned, place heatshrink over the top third of
the whip and shrink it. Measure any frequency shift and re-adjust
the bottom turns to correct it. Place heatshrink over the next
third (with overlap) and shrink it. Again, measure and correct
any frequency shift. Finally shrink the bottom segment (again
with overlap) and re-check. Black heatshrink is generally more
UV-stable so should last longer out in the weather.
- Originally
I used self-amalgamating rubber tape to waterproof a couple of
my helicals but in recent times have added a series of tapering
heatshrink sleeves over the top of the tape. Do not use normal
plastic/electrical tape in the final construction - it won't last.
I have made
up helical whips for 3580, 7070, 14170 and 21150 using this method,
based on fishing rod blanks, and tuned them right where I wanted
them. My oldest whip (7 MHz / 40 metres) is now 20 years old, still
gets used occasionally.... and is still tuned to 7070 !
It is a good
idea to clearly mark each whip with the band code eg 3.5MHz / 7MHz
/ 14MHz / 21MHz / 28MHz because one thing I can advise you - they
all look very much alike and it is all too easy to screw on the
wrong whip for the band you are trying to use !! You can even make
one for 27MHz (if you wish) and compete with the commercial antenna
suppliers.. and see if yours is better.
Of course
these days the whip formers might be the so-called "squid poles",
outdoor-rated electrical conduit or even thin-wall fibreglass tube.
If you are short on physical space, you can even make up two identical
helical whips, mount them horizontally opposite off a suitable hub,
and form a rotatable dipole { though this provides only for narrow
bandwidth coverage }.
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Update
17 Sep 2009 : Following creation of this web page, I chanced across
another web site that also dealt with helical design : http://hamwaves.com/antennas/inductance.html
I
put the example values into the calculator on that page, selected
turns as 398, used 0.3mm as the wire diameter, left the wire as
'Cu annealed'and it calculated self-resonance at 7.163 (in lieu
of 7.100). Adding more turns from my calculator's 398 to 404 brought
the frequency down to 7.10046 MHz.
Given
that I indicated right in the first paragraph that this calculator
is simply a starting point in making your own whips, an error of
4-5 turns in 400 seems reasonable - and mine is a lot simpler to
use.
Comparing
results also showed up an error in my wire length formula - which
has been corrected in the zip/exe file now available for download.
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